Photos taken on 3rd December using wireless remote cable system.

The morning of Saturday 3rd December proved to be bright and sunny, but very cold and windy. I hoped to take photos of birds at one or more of the feeding stations in my garden. Since the light was bright I could use a low ISO number - choosing ISO 200. I also chose a wide aperture, which meant that I could use a fast shutter speed. I felt this was necessary since

• the feeders themselves were constantly swinging in the strong wind
• by this means I would maximise my chances of catching the movement of the birds still in focus.

I fixed the camera on my tripod about 5 feet from the feeder:

• to give the camera stability in the wind
• to enable all the settings - manual focus, aperture, shutter speed and focal length to be fixed

Initially I used the view finder to compose the picture, but as explained in my previous blog this proved to be very unwieldy and ineffective. Hence I used live view on the camera:

• to enable me to compose the picture
• to enable me to accurately use manual focus on the specific area I hoped to photograph

I used manual focus rather than auto focus:

• so that the photo would be taken instantly (rather than recalibrate with auto focus) - or the birds would literally have flown!
• because the high winds made the feeders swing considerably - making auto focus impossible to use

I used the wireless remote control to fire the shutter:

• so that I remained out of the sight of the birds and they could behave naturally
• and I remained warm - an important factor as it was very cold.

The results are shown below:

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 50 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 50 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 50 mm

These 3 photos showed that using a remote wireless cable release was an effective means of taking action photographs of the birds. By having a fast shutter speed I captured the wing movement and was pleased with the effect. I did feel that I could get a closer image by increasing the magnification of the lens. To position the tripod closer was not easy.

f/5.0; ISO 200; 1/800 sec; focal length 98 mm

With this image I wanted to see if I could capture the birds waiting on nearby branches. Indeed I could and the composition of the photo was potentially interesting. Unfortunately, the focus was not as accurate as required and also the bird sat behind a small twig (how could it?!)

Lessons:

• More care with manual focus
• Check the composition more carefully to ensure stray twigs are cut away!

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 40 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 40 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 40 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 40 mm

f/4.5; ISO 200; 1/200 sec; focal length 40 mm

These final images are further away, but show that this technique can work to capture the birds in action.

More on Wireless Cable Release.

I have been experimenting with the HAMA Wireless remote control Digital Camera Connecting System Base (Universal) 00005202 this weekend. Details of the system are given below:

The camera is connected to the receiver by a cable. This receiver is attached to the camera by attachment to the flash shoe, and can itself be operated manually. However the wireless remote shutter release will also operate the receiver  at a distance of up to 150metres, and through glass, doors and walls.

This makes it ideal for use in photographing shy birds and animals. The camera can be set up on a tripod with attachments as detailed above, set on manual focus on a feeder for example; the shy bird uses the feeder; I remain out of site (and warm) indoors, press the wireless release and - the camera shutter is released on camera and a photo is taken.

The images below show the set up I have used in more detail:

This shows the set up of the camera which is focused on the peanut feeder.

This is a closer image. The item circled in red is the receiver, that in yellow shows where the cable links via a USB port to the camera.

Again a closer image of the camera and receiver.


(The 3 photos above were taken using Olympus C-765 Ultra Zoom Digital Camera.)

Use of Live View

This weekend I have been playing with the remote control of the camera using a wireless cable release. The first problem was getting the tripod to be stable - but with patience that was sorted. However to get the image I wanted of a feeder the camera had to be a) portrait ; b) very high up and difficult for me to use ; c) I wanted to use manual focus so that the photo was taken quickly and focused on the correct spot.

My basic problem was that I normally use the view finder to compose shots and I could not physically get my eye in place!! Whenever I have previously tried to use Live View I have struggled with either reflection on the LCD screen or seeing the image at all. However I tried this setting and because the camera was on a tripod the image was stable. In addition there was no reflection!

Now I needed to manual focus - and this was going to be vital as my depth of field was very small. I then discovered I could a) move the manual focus spot easily and b) magnify this spot by pressing 'OK' and hence focus perfectly.

What a find!! This weekend seems to be one long learning curve!

Below is information from the Olympus website and Olympus E520 manual to explain this process:

"Live View is made possible by moving the mirror upwards and displaying the image on the LCD at the back of the camera as the image sensor “sees” it. Both automatic and manual focusing modes are supported."

The image below shows the LCD screen on my camera (circled in silver) and the set up of the wireless remote ( see next blog for more details).

Rejection of an image

Below is an image which when I first saw it I thought was delightful.

I love the colours, but with a clearer image the lack of focus at both the front and back of the image become apparent.


For this reason I tried to crop the image - again to 10 by 8 inches.

Unfortunately the lack of focus is still a distraction. I like the colours and overall composition, but feel it needed a greater depth of field to give a sharpness throughout.


Unfortunately - a reject!


Addendum:
If you check in my choice of final images you will see that upon further reflection, and hearing the views of colleagues, I have reconsidered and included this image in my final selection!! Details of reasons are given in that blog.

Another photoshop image

This image is of the willow tree taken in September.

I like this image as it conveys to me the beauty and majesty of this magnificent tree which has played a central role within my memories of my garden (children climbing trees and falling out of them!, growing and ageing during our time there, birds and animals sheltering there) so it will be a memento to me.


I like the rectangle made by the trunk and the branches, the colours of the leaves,bark and sky together.It feels totally as one with nature - peaceful yet majestic.




Initially I cropped the image to 10 by 8 inches:

I then tried a conversion to black and white. Although this shows the strong lines of the image, the monochrome makes the image appear 'smaller' and less delineated.  Visually it has less impact so I have rejected this adjustment.

I also rejected changes to:
      hue and saturation
      exposure
      


I then tried photo filter, wondering if a warming filter would enhance the gold of the autumnal leaves and the bark of the tree.

I believe it succeeded so intend to use this adjustment.

I then wondered if increasing the vibrancy would improve the image.

Again I believe this was so.

Above is the final image, and below the original image.

The changes applied have been subtle, but the image is now warmer and appears less exposed.



Further Action:
Research the terms
     hue
     saturation
     vibrance
     filters

Cable Release

Having spoken with Steve about the problems in 'hiding' myself to take photos of the birds in my garden I have this morning purchased:

HAMA Digital Camera Connecting System Connecting Cable OLY-1 (for Olympus Cameras) 00005210

HAMA Wireless remote control Digital Camera Connecting System  Base (Universal) 00005202

I visited my local camera shop so that I could be given expert advice in an area where my knowledge is limited. This proved to be the case.

The remote control base was chosen since possible sites for the camera are 30 feet or more away. I would need several linking cables for this.

Plan:
Hopefully on Sunday I can play with this & see if I can achieve good images of birds at or near the feeding stations.

Introduction to Photoshop: Cropping; Layers; Retouching

This was a basic session on Photoshop using version CS5 at Burton College.

Prior to this I have used Photoshop Elements at home - for cropping and very simple retouching. I have NEVER understood the  concept of 'layers' within Photoshop.

This is the base image I have chosen - a sunrise at home in late September (Indian Summer). When looked at closely there is a large blemish in the sky (possibly a dirty camera sensor), and also telephone cables running from left to right. Otherwise this is an image with which I am reasonably happy.


Initially the image was imported into Photoshop and sized to fit the screen:
       View --> Fit On Screen (Command O)

1. Cropping;

Initially I decided the necessary size of the photo - in this case 10" by 8", with a resolution of 300 dpi. I amended the opacity to 100% - background 'black', and clicked on the 'Cropping Tool', also choosing the 'Rule of Thirds' as an aid to composition. I decided to lose the central flowers which are at the bottom of the photo, and to have the sun at a Rule of Thirds intersection, keeping the clear sky quite central. By having a black background the image is easier to evaluate. Once happy with the image I clicked the tick to accept, and then resized to fit the screen. This gave me my background layer, which will remain untouched from herein.

2. Layers:

To facilitate adjustment layers are now added on top of the background layer. The advantage of using layers is that since the background layer remains untouched any changes can be deleted without having to start the whole process from the beginning.

The method used is to click:
     Layer --> New Adjustment Layer --->
The choices then can be seen on the image below.

Brightness / Contrast:
     Initially the settings for both were 0; I reduced the brightness to -10, leaving the contrast at 0.

Hue / Saturation:
     Initially Hue, Saturation and Lightness were set as 0. I amended the hue to +30 (green image below) and then -23 ( red image below), before returning all settings to zero.

Color Balance:
     See below. These were kept at zero.

In this image the build up of the layers can be seen.

Vibrance:
     Again kept to zero.

Exposure:
     See below - again unchanged.

Black and White:
     The image below shows the settings chosen, whilst the image produced appears next. The monochrome image is not an improvement in this instance, since the attraction of the original image is its light and colours.

This image shows more clearly the visual blemishes which can be improved by:

3. Retouching:

For this we must click on the background layer and duplicate it. The original must remain untouched.

     Layer --> Duplicate Layer ( see above)

Ideally the area to be 'fixed' should be at 100% magnification. For this the 'Magnification Tool' is used.

Once at 100% magnification the 'Clone Tool' must be selected - in this instance a soft edge is required. By clicking on the target area together with the 'ALT' key the copy can be made and then released onto the blemish to obscure it.

In this way the large blemish was removed. However the cables require more precise work for their removal.

Finally the image can be saved: