Friday 25 November 2011

Cable Release

Having spoken with Steve about the problems in 'hiding' myself to take photos of the birds in my garden I have this morning purchased:

HAMA Digital Camera Connecting System Connecting Cable OLY-1 (for Olympus Cameras) 00005210

HAMA Wireless remote control Digital Camera Connecting System  Base (Universal) 00005202

I visited my local camera shop so that I could be given expert advice in an area where my knowledge is limited. This proved to be the case.

The remote control base was chosen since possible sites for the camera are 30 feet or more away. I would need several linking cables for this.

Plan:
Hopefully on Sunday I can play with this & see if I can achieve good images of birds at or near the feeding stations.

Introduction to Photoshop: Cropping; Layers; Retouching

This was a basic session on Photoshop using version CS5 at Burton College.


Prior to this I have used Photoshop Elements at home - for cropping and very simple retouching. I have NEVER understood the  concept of 'layers' within Photoshop.




This is the base image I have chosen - a sunrise at home in late September (Indian Summer). When looked at closely there is a large blemish in the sky (possibly a dirty camera sensor), and also telephone cables running from left to right. Otherwise this is an image with which I am reasonably happy.


Initially the image was imported into Photoshop and sized to fit the screen:
       View --> Fit On Screen (Command O)




1. Cropping;

Initially I decided the necessary size of the photo - in this case 10" by 8", with a resolution of 300 dpi. I amended the opacity to 100% - background 'black', and clicked on the 'Cropping Tool', also choosing the 'Rule of Thirds' as an aid to composition. I decided to lose the central flowers which are at the bottom of the photo, and to have the sun at a Rule of Thirds intersection, keeping the clear sky quite central. By having a black background the image is easier to evaluate. Once happy with the image I clicked the tick to accept, and then resized to fit the screen. This gave me my background layer, which will remain untouched from herein.


2. Layers:

To facilitate adjustment layers are now added on top of the background layer. The advantage of using layers is that since the background layer remains untouched any changes can be deleted without having to start the whole process from the beginning.

The method used is to click:
     Layer --> New Adjustment Layer --->
The choices then can be seen on the image below.



Brightness / Contrast:
     Initially the settings for both were 0; I reduced the brightness to -10, leaving the contrast at 0.

Hue / Saturation:
     Initially Hue, Saturation and Lightness were set as 0. I amended the hue to +30 (green image below) and then -23 ( red image below), before returning all settings to zero.



Color Balance:
     See below. These were kept at zero.

In this image the build up of the layers can be seen.

Vibrance:
     Again kept to zero.

Exposure:
     See below - again unchanged.

Black and White:
     The image below shows the settings chosen, whilst the image produced appears next. The monochrome image is not an improvement in this instance, since the attraction of the original image is its light and colours.




This image shows more clearly the visual blemishes which can be improved by:

3. Retouching:

For this we must click on the background layer and duplicate it. The original must remain untouched.
     Layer --> Duplicate Layer ( see above)

Ideally the area to be 'fixed' should be at 100% magnification. For this the 'Magnification Tool' is used.

Once at 100% magnification the 'Clone Tool' must be selected - in this instance a soft edge is required. By clicking on the target area together with the 'ALT' key the copy can be made and then released onto the blemish to obscure it.

In this way the large blemish was removed. However the cables require more precise work for their removal.



Finally the image can be saved:



Thursday 24 November 2011

Birds / Mammals currently visiting Church Farm.

Front Feeders:

Blue tits

Great tits

Greenfinches

Chaffinches

Sparrows / Dunnocks

Greater Spotted Woodpecker



Not seen recently:

Long tailed tits

Bearded tits

Bullfinches

Nuthatch



Patio Feeders:

Similar to above, plus pigeons



Those that feed on the ground:

Pheasants

Partridges

Blackbirds

Grey squirrels



These are generally under the oak tree and around the compost area – not clearly visible from the house.



Birds seen but not feeding:

Magpies

Crows

Geese (flying overhead)

Wrens



Challenges to Photography:

Determining a ‘hide’ from which photos can be taken

Sufficient light to enable a fast shutter speed without a high ISO number

Attracting birds and mammals to photogenic and accessible spots:

Birds on branches not feeders

Ground birds perfectly visible



Possible solutions:

Improve photographic technique

Innovation in developing ‘hides’

Placing food to attract birds not normally visited

e.g. on the ground of the main lawn near to the patio






Tuesday 22 November 2011

Scouting for places from which to photograph birds visiting the feeders.

This weekend I planned to discover the possible vantage points from which to take photos of birds (or squirrels) visiting the garden feeders.

Since the birds are exceedingly shy (and fast) either to be hidden from view or at a great distance would appear to be the first options.

I have initially identified three possible sites; two overlook the feeders at the front, with the third overlooking the patio

SITE 1:
  • From the upstairs window that overlooks the feeders. I hoped to use a tripod for this, and would be completely hidden from the birds.
Findings:
Indeed the birds were undisturbed. Unfortunately the window is not large and opens outwards and upwards, with a quite restricted view. For one feeder it was impossible to use the tripod as the camera could be placed neither at the right angle nor close enough to the opening ( I did attempt using the tripod as a monopod).

The image below uses the tripod as a monopod. This proved exceptionally cumbersome and unstable, so if I wish to shoot from here the camera will have to be hand held.


f/22; ISO 200; 0.80 sec; focal length 133mm

For such an incredibly slow shutter speed the clarity is amazing (or plain lucky!). For all other shots I increased the aperture so that shutter speed could be increased.


The next group of photos were also taken from the upstairs bedroom, using the tripod. By this time my husband had kindly trimmed back excess foliage which compromised the images (Thanks Andrew!!).


f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/20 sec; focal length 190mm

Increasing the aperture did enable a faster shutter speed, but the lighting was so poor (and this was at 1pm - maximum light!) that the shutter speed was still too slow, so the birds are quite blurred.


For the next photos I increased the ISO number so that again I could reduce the shutter speed.


f/5.6; ISO 400; 1/50 sec; focal length 114mm

The shutter speed is still too slow to prevent blurring of the movement of the birds.

f/5.6; ISO 400; 1/50 sec; focal length 96mm


For the next 4 photos I opened the aperture to the maximum possible for the lens to try to increase shutter speed.

f/4.6; ISO 400; 1/100 sec; focal length 158mm

f/4.5; ISO 400; 1/50 sec; focal length 149mm


f/4.5; ISO 400; 1/50 sec; focal length 149mm

f/4.5; ISO 400; 1/50 sec; focal length 149mm

The clarity and focus have improved. Unfortunately I struggle with a tripod so the image is not positioned as I might wish.



SITE 2:

  • From the downstairs lounge window next to the feeders. I hoped here to again use the tripod to either shoot through an open window, or with the door open.
Unfortunately the tripod cannot get sufficiently close to the window, and the camera would be so high to make it unworkable for me.
The door seemed a good second option - but it opens to the left - which means the door is between the feeders and the lounge when open. The photos below were taken hand held as I stood just behind the open door.

These photos were all taken at 14.40pm, with the fog beginning to descend and the light beginning to fade fast. For this reason I increased the ISO to 800 in an attempt to attain a reasonably fast shutter speed. Even at ISO 800 the speeds were too slow.




f/4.9; ISO 800; 1/40 sec; focal length 190mm


f/4.5; ISO 800; 1/25 sec; focal length 70mm

f/4.5; ISO 800; 1/40 sec; focal length 149mm

f/4.5; ISO 800; 1/60 sec; focal length 141mm



SITE 3:

  • From the upstairs back bedroom window, overlooking the patio. Here the window is large and opens to the right giving a perfect view of the garden whilst I remain hidden to the birds (although they do sense any large movements).
There are 2 photos here. By now the light was poor, and I used ISO 1600 and a tripod. Shutter speed is certainly adequate, although this ISO setting will obviously detract from the final image clarity. The problem encountered here was the auto focus of the camera. In the first shot the wooden support is in focus; in the second it is the feeder.




f/4.8; ISO 1600; 1/100 sec; focal length 179mm



f/4.8; ISO 1600; 1/160 sec; focal length 179mm


A fourth site within the house is possible - from the room which directly overlooks the patio. The patio door can be opened to give a clear view of the garden and feeders and a tripod set up inside.


Action / Learning Points:

  • To investigate taking photos from the patio door
  • To take more photos from the lounge door
  • To use the tripod exclusively until I become comfortable with it
  • To take photos from the bedroom overlooking the patio
  • To use manual focus more until I am comfortable with it
  • To use 'live view' on the camera more
  • To discover more sites where I am hidden from the birds from which photos can be taken
  • To explore the use of other aids ( e.g. remote controls?)


Monday 21 November 2011

Reflection after Week 9

This week I have managed to upload most of my photos to date, and feel that there is now a good core of photos for Theme 1 – Close Up photography in the garden.

However Theme 2 – Wildlife photography seems less secure. The main issue is being able to take photos of birds or animals in motion. This weekend I hope to review possible sites from which photos can be taken, plus take some speculative shots. Lighting will be an important factor since I shall need a fast shutter speed, which may be a factor limited by autumnal weather (fog and rain!). High ISO will help, but does not enhance the clarity of the photos.


Addendum.
The weekend was foggy and as anticipated light was a limiting factor. Photos to be uploaded asap.

Thursday 17 November 2011

Autumn Hedgerows- November 2011


f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/40 second; focal length 73 mm


f/16; ISO 800; 1/25 second; focal length 55 mm


f/16; ISO 1600; 1/60 second; focal length 55 mm

Toadstools - November 2011

Whilst wondering around the garden I discovered these toadstools and decided to experiment. The camera was handheld using the telephoto lens (70 - 300 mm). I wanted a reasonable depth of field - f/11 was a compromise. Since the camera was hand held I could not reduce my shutter speed any further even with image stabilisation, so the ISO setting was increased to 800.



f/11; ISO 800; 1/25 second; focal length 123 mm


f/11; ISO 800; 1/30 second; focal length 128 mm


f/11; ISO 800; 1/30 second; focal length 76 mm


f/11; ISO 800; 1/30 second; focal length 123 mm

The final image has been chosen to be in the final folio. My initial thoughts were delight at the colours and varying textures shown. If I could get a lower perspective it might prove interesting, as possibly might be a narrower depth of field.


f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/20 second; focal length 150 mm
This image I find fascinating as the various colours and textures are shown. Possibly a closer image , a narrower field of view and brighter light would help to produce a livelier and more interesting image

Trees in the Late Afternoon Sun - November 2011

Below are several images of trees. The camera was hand held, image stabilisation utilised and the lens set at wide angle ( 40 - 150 mm).


I had recently been studying Richard Muir's photographs, which acted as a spur to me. My images are below:



f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/50 second; focal length 43 mm.
This image does nothing. It has no vibrancy to it. It needs some light on the trees to enliven it; the composition is so-so. Maybe it could be improved by moving further away - or closer. a change of perspective would certainly help - maybe looking from the ground upwards.


f/11; ISO 200; 1/160 second; focal length 43 mm


f/16; ISO 200; 1/80 second; focal length 40 mm

f/16; ISO 200; 1/80 second; focal length 40 mm

The last 3 images are all taken with the sun behind me as the sky was reflecting a pink tinge in the clouds. The final image has been chosen for my folio of images, although the first of the 3 images came close as it showed the cloud colour better. However I believe the composition of the third image is better - simpler and more direct. This choice is discussed in another blog.

Willow Bark - November 2011


In November I reviewed some work by Steve Young, with one image being that of tree bark. This I tried to emulate.

I used a hand held camera with the telephoto lens (70 - 300 mm), autofocus and aided by image stabilisation.



f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/20 second; focal length 67 mm



f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/23 second; focal length 64 mm


In order for this image to work completely accurate focusing is required. Unfortunately with autofocus this was not the case. Additionally because I did not wish to increase my ISO setting even with a wide aperture the shutter speed was slow. Even with image stabilisation camera shake is likely. In addition Steve's image is taken in quite bright light, which was not the case here, resulting in a rather flat image.

On the positive side the images, especially the second are well composed. The textures are gorgeous, and I intend to repeat this exercise in the better light of spring or summer.

Addendum:
Live view and manual focusing should ensure pinpoint focusing, with the camera being on a tripod. In this way the shutter speed will not be a problem so that I should be able to experiment with aperture width

Beech Hedge - November 2011


These photos of the beech hedge were taken to explore depth of field, and also to explore the colour differences as the hedge turned from green through gold to brown.

The camera was hand held and supported by image stabilisation. The lens is wide angle in use; 40 - 150 mm


f/22; ISO 400; 0.30 second; focal length 40 mm
Just how this photo is not completely blurred with a shutter speed of 0.3 second is chance. ISO 400 worked - just!



f/5.6; ISO 400; 1/60 second; focal length 43 mm
A narrower depth of field, but the rest of the hedge is visible. The colours and textures of the foreground are fascinating, and compare well with the lawn and hedge in the background. This iamge is in my final selection and is discussed fully there. I am quite delighted with it.


f/5.6; ISO 400; 1/40 second; focal length 45 mm
This image is far less interesting - no contrasts in colour or texture.


f/5.6; ISO 800; 1/160 second; focal length 45 mm
An interesting image with a very narrow depth of field.


f/5.6; ISO 800; 1/160 second; focal length 45 mm
Again a narrow depth of field, but less satisfactory than the (2nd) image above. There is less colour and contrast - less to interest the observer.

Moss & Leaves - November 2011

This series of photos was taken one sunny afternoon in November, and shows the contrasting colours and textures of the moss, leaves and berries on a garden path. I used the 70 - 300 mm lens, with the camera being hand held supported by image stabilisation to permit lower shutter speeds. This process in modern digital SLR cameras allows slower shutter speeds to be used without camera movement (from myself) being apparent. Taking the photo on an 'in' breath, and bracing yourself against something (husbands are useful for this) can also help to reduce camera shake.



f/5.0; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 86 mm


f/5.0; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 90 mm

f/5.4; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 132 mm


f/5.5; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 137 mm

The slowest shutter speed permitted was 1/30th second; as I got closer the aperture needed widening to maintain this. I did not want to increase the ISO setting as this would have produced noise and graininess, which would have been apparent in these sombre colours.

I tried to include the red berries as a bright contrast to both the shrivelled dark berries and the decaying leaves; there was little 'life' in the images - but this was an image of autumn.

The second image is the one I prefer - it is the lightest, and has some bright living moss to act as a foil to the rest of the image. I discuss in another blog why this image is in my final folio choice.

More Bulbs - November 2011



In November I returned to the colourful bulbs - they had opened further and the leaves had begun to decay. I was curious to see how this affected the final images.



f/8; ISO 200; 1/25 second; focal length 90 mm

f/8; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 90 mm

f/5.6; ISO 200; 1/60 second; focal length 90 mm

f/5.0; ISO 200; 1/80 second; focal length 90 mm

f/5.0; ISO 200; 1/30 second; focal length 90 mm

The camera was on a tripod for stability and I once I had composed my image I experimented with the aperture and depth of field. Wider aperture gives narrower depth of field.

The last image is the one I prefer. the colours and contrasting textures are a delight, and the wider background of the other photos was a distraction .

I prefer the photo taken earlier - mainly because of its simplicity. However what would be a fascinating project for 2012 would be to take the same photo throughout the year and display4 images together to contrast the seasons. A good plan I think!